 |
Nesting Sea Turtle
|
The morning had started off well, family was rallied to
awake at 4:45 a.m. and schlepp off to ford a river and hike down the beach in
search of a turtle nesting or babies scuttling back to the ocean. Within 10 minutes on the beach we spotted the
tracks heading up from the surf and saw a female flipping sand about her
clutch. We watched from 15 meters back
or so as she finished her work and made her way back down the beach and swam
away into the sea.
Kamilla and I had explored Playa Buena Vista the morning
before, but this was the first time for Spencer and mom.
We walked down the beach and found a research
station that was set up for the conservation of turtles and also to help in
their recovery.
They often remove part
of a clutch of eggs from a nest and then incubate them at the research station until
they hatch 40 – 55 days later.
A man came
out from the station and showed us a short video on an ipad of some babies that
had hatched and been released in the last day or so.
We had arrived back in our family golf cart by 10 a.m. and I
was ready to get back out into the wild and explore some. I’d just been reading about Playa Berrigona
(where Mel Gibson has a house) and decided this would be a great destination
for me about 7 km away, albeit with a few ups and downs included in that
distance. Did I mention this was our 26th
anniversary and I was planning to just leave Yvette with the kids for a few
hours?
We had previously attempted to go to this beach with our
golf cart, but realized there was a river flowing across the road and turned back
there. Having watched a tractor and a
man on horse back go across, I thought I could just carry the bicycle and
continue on the road.
 |
Playa Barrigona
|
I readied the mountain bike and embarked. The river was forded with ease and a few hills
were climbed with less ease as I panted and sometimes pushed the bike up the
path. I watched some animals, a Caracaras eating a flattened lizard in the
road, and a hen with her brood scratching at leaf litter and grabbing bugs and
enjoyed the constant chorus of birds and insects. A few raindrops fell as I reached the beach
and parked the bike. The beach had soft
white sand, a small river flowing into it, and some beautiful shells. I watched the beach and watched crabs de-sanding
their burrows… and scurrying with the surf’s rhythm. I ate a few snacks by a little trickling
waterfall as a light rain fell, and after an hour I was back on the bike
heading back.
 |
Highway 160
|
The rain started to pick up and felt cool and refreshing on
my face. I stopped for a fruit popsicle as
the rain started in greater earnestness, but this past after 10 minutes and I
continued. Vanity is such an interesting
thing. Two local ladies were chatting beside
the road as I passed and one smiled and hailed me as though I was a cab and
joked “Taxi!” (a motorcycle was just pulling up for them). I laughed and continued, knowing they would
probably come zipping by me any minute (they didn’t), I found myself not wanting
to be found pushing the bike up the hill and that motivated me ¾ of the way to
the top before I surrendered to my out-of-breath self and pushed the rest of
the way up. I was contemplating my pride
as I listened to the howler monkeys above me and coasted down the hill back to
the river crossing. Unfortunately those
few drops of rain at the beach had been evidently been heavier in the mountains. The river was at least 2 feet higher and 15
meters or more wider. The current was
fast and rafts of logs and vegetation were rapidly moving by it. The water was muddy brown and I pondered my
recent knowledge and conversations about crocodiles in this river. All cars and 4x4s approaching from both sides
were turning back. I called Yvette to
let her know I might not be back on schedule and felt a bit stupid for not having
anticipated this. I had downloaded
Google Maps for the region and could use this to see some alternate routes, I
think the next best option would be about 40 km vs the 3 km that I had
remaining if I could cross.
 |
Water level when I Arrived
|
The rain had stopped where I was, though the trees were
still dripping in the breeze, so I waded through the muck and marked the waters
edge, deciding to wait and see if the water would go down.For an hour and a half I marked the water and explored a
little bit continuing to see any cars turn back, and also to see that the river
had gone down at least 1 ½ feet and shrunk several meters. I pondered defeat and calling a taxi to take
me the long way around with only a few hours left of daylight and my battery on
the phone ebbing lower.
Then a local man, Jonathan, came down on his one-speed
bicycle. He greeted me and looked at the
river and asked where I was going. We talked a bit in Spanish. He thought it would be about waist deep. He started to take off his shoes and so I
found my bravery in someone else wading into the river and we both shouldered
our bikes and crossed the river moving downstream with the current at a
diagonal and then walking back up once we had reached the shallows on the other
side.
I thanked Johnathan for his example and companionship, and
we both peddled off muddy and barefoot towards our respective destinations. I happy to be heading back to family with a
story and a bit of chagrin for being gone 5 hours, and grateful that I wasn’t
spending the night in a pension on the other side of the river, or sitting
waiting for a taxi, or bitten by a large reptile or turned into a feast for
mosquitos…
Glad to be traveling through the world with Yvette and family and many kind people and benign bugs and critters.